Little feet scales the mighty Siachen
It is said there is always a first time. And this was my 'first time' !
Getting to know about a wonderful opportunity that Indian Army opened up for civilians to trek a part of the Siachen Glacier made me jump at the opportunity almost instantly. Without giving it a second thought I made up my mind to visit the ‘highest battlefield of the world’ where my husband had served once. I was nervous yet excited and all set to take on the trek. I was looking forward to some intriguing and highly adventurous experiences sprinkled with thrill, excitement and dangers.
And to top it all, I had to do full justice to the nickname that I have been generously bestowed by my close family and friends of being a 'drama queen'. So without much ado I started preparing for the trek with my first purchase being a green 'kajal' and a track pant with bright red strips. ;)
Going on with the serious part now, the trek team members reached Leh separately around mid of September 2015. My first impression on landing in Leh was that of stepping into my own childhood painting of brown mountains without a speck of green, clear blue skies, puffy white cotton clouds lazily floating. We were given a very warm welcome and a comfortable stay in Hotel Mahey Resort on reaching Leh. The other trekkers trickled in the next couple of days. I was very enthusiastic to meet the other trekkers. Our group consisted of people from varied backgrounds like the Railways, media, students from the military schools, private sector professionals and dependents like me. Very soon we became one big family.
In Leh, we had our first stage of acclimatisation for 7 days. Taking complete rest coupled with tons of fluids for the first couple of days, we started off with small walks of 2-3kms daily in and around the city. Our medical check-ups were also being done regularly twice a day. And on a lighter note, together we all looked like a 'talking-walking' outlet of Decathalon.
On 22nd September, 28 of us started our journey towards Siachen Base Camp for the second stage acclimatisation. Unfortunately, we had to leave behind four of our fellow trekkers due to medical reasons. On our way, it was at Khardungla – the highest motorable road in the word – the realisation that we would be cut off from civilisation hit me. No mobile coverage network for the next 20 days atleast was something unimaginable in today’s world. The journey was quite tiring with tortuous roads, our vehicles breaking down a couple of times, but the larger picture of being able to make it to the Siachen Glacier kept us all going. These frequent breakdowns delayed our arrival at the Base camp by 4-5 hours.
We were to stay in the base camp for the next 10 days for the second stage acclimatisation. Trekking gear was issued on the second day of arrival. And believe me those huge looking things were definitely not for a petite person like me. The very thought of wearing the Scarppa boots of size 8 (my original shoe size is 3 :( ) made me realise that this was it for me and I am not meant to be here. Walking in those shoes was not a child’s play. The real game was now sinking in. The acclimatisaton schedule included regular walks of 3-4 kms, exercise and daily medical check-ups. The medical check-ups were more dreaded than the trek with our scarppas on or the exercise routines. One day of high BP was enough to send even the fittest person home. And it was something nobody wanted after coming so close. I felt along with ones good physical standards, having a great mental and positive outlook was of utmost importance at this point. Here we were trained by the instructors of Siachen Battle School (SBS) and the Army Mountaineering Institute (AMI).
During our daily walks and exercises, we also saw the troops who were to be inducted for glacier, being trained by the very able instructors of the SBS. However, watching their training made me feel that the Army actually had made everything for us so easy compared to what these inductees have to go through. We had a planned training schedule which kept us occupied the whole day where we also learnt ice craft and rock craft by the instructors. This trek would have not have been possible without the able guidance and mentoring of the instructors from SBS and AMI. Five instructors were our constant companions right from Leh throughout the journey. It was they who went out of their way and ensured our safety and well-being. They kept us motivated and in high spirits whenever we felt low or thought of giving up.
Finally, after days of acclimatisation and training, it was 24 of us along with our instructors, officers of the IA and the porters who started our journey on 4th October 2015. We were embarking on a journey that only a handful of civilians and dependents get to experience in their entire lifetime. Our team included four ladies and we were hell bent on completing the trek together. After taking OP Baba’s blessings, we began our trek towards Camp I. On DAY 1 we had to cover 12kms and thereafter it was 14,16 and 18 kms respectively, everyday, until we reached the Kumar Post. We were grouped into 5-6 people, roped up and led by an instructor. During the course of the trek, each rope became a family. Whether it was sharing water, chocolates or when one gets tired, the entire rope stopped and we were always there for each other. The true definition of team work got tested to its limit during the trek.
Although the first day was easier as we all were very excited, DAY 2 was a little difficult. We had to wear crampons for almost 5-6 kms. The slopes became steeper with many crevasses every now and then. Joys knew no bounds when our instructors would tell us that half link is near. Although it was tiring, the sense of togetherness and team spirit kept us going. It was a strange dilemma for all us because we could see the stark white snow but we could not risk touching it. At every camp elaborate snacks, scrumptious meals awaited us. And we were astonished to see the hospitality we received even at that height. We could see the happiness in our soldiers’ eyes when they saw us. We were a good change for them from their usual routine. They went out of their way to make us comfortable in minus degree temperature. Very evening, we got our hand and foot parade checked by the medical officer who were accompanying us. The best part was at every camp we were told that the next day is going to be easy than the previous and that very soon all of us will be at Kumar.
The view in the glacier was breath-taking. The dark nights with bright shining stars made every single moment up there so very memorable for us. Seeing a shooting star became so common that we stopped making a wish. However, deep below we all had one wish – to successfully complete the trek. Landing at this place I found the saying ‘land so barren and passes so high that only the best of friends and worst of enemy will visit us’ standing so true.
At Camp II, we had to again leave behind four of our fellow trekkers due to various medical reasons. But as they say - live moves on. And finally, on Day IV, we reached the Kumar Post.
Words failed to describe our feeling of achievement, pride and honour when we touched the Post. Emotions gushed through my mind when I saw the welcome board at Kumar Post. Being able to stand at Kumar Post was the most memorable moment of my life as I was able to stand up to the expectations of my dear ones and most importantly myself. And for the first time, four ladies and a lady officer – and maybe the first Army Officer’s Wife - were standing tall at Kumar Post.
It was a sense of pride that nobody could take from me. At the same time, I am humble to the Indian Army for helping the entire team at every step in realising our dream. And today, even I have my set of stories to share with the world on the Glacier.
Getting to know about a wonderful opportunity that Indian Army opened up for civilians to trek a part of the Siachen Glacier made me jump at the opportunity almost instantly. Without giving it a second thought I made up my mind to visit the ‘highest battlefield of the world’ where my husband had served once. I was nervous yet excited and all set to take on the trek. I was looking forward to some intriguing and highly adventurous experiences sprinkled with thrill, excitement and dangers.
And to top it all, I had to do full justice to the nickname that I have been generously bestowed by my close family and friends of being a 'drama queen'. So without much ado I started preparing for the trek with my first purchase being a green 'kajal' and a track pant with bright red strips. ;)
Going on with the serious part now, the trek team members reached Leh separately around mid of September 2015. My first impression on landing in Leh was that of stepping into my own childhood painting of brown mountains without a speck of green, clear blue skies, puffy white cotton clouds lazily floating. We were given a very warm welcome and a comfortable stay in Hotel Mahey Resort on reaching Leh. The other trekkers trickled in the next couple of days. I was very enthusiastic to meet the other trekkers. Our group consisted of people from varied backgrounds like the Railways, media, students from the military schools, private sector professionals and dependents like me. Very soon we became one big family.
In Leh, we had our first stage of acclimatisation for 7 days. Taking complete rest coupled with tons of fluids for the first couple of days, we started off with small walks of 2-3kms daily in and around the city. Our medical check-ups were also being done regularly twice a day. And on a lighter note, together we all looked like a 'talking-walking' outlet of Decathalon.
On 22nd September, 28 of us started our journey towards Siachen Base Camp for the second stage acclimatisation. Unfortunately, we had to leave behind four of our fellow trekkers due to medical reasons. On our way, it was at Khardungla – the highest motorable road in the word – the realisation that we would be cut off from civilisation hit me. No mobile coverage network for the next 20 days atleast was something unimaginable in today’s world. The journey was quite tiring with tortuous roads, our vehicles breaking down a couple of times, but the larger picture of being able to make it to the Siachen Glacier kept us all going. These frequent breakdowns delayed our arrival at the Base camp by 4-5 hours.
We were to stay in the base camp for the next 10 days for the second stage acclimatisation. Trekking gear was issued on the second day of arrival. And believe me those huge looking things were definitely not for a petite person like me. The very thought of wearing the Scarppa boots of size 8 (my original shoe size is 3 :( ) made me realise that this was it for me and I am not meant to be here. Walking in those shoes was not a child’s play. The real game was now sinking in. The acclimatisaton schedule included regular walks of 3-4 kms, exercise and daily medical check-ups. The medical check-ups were more dreaded than the trek with our scarppas on or the exercise routines. One day of high BP was enough to send even the fittest person home. And it was something nobody wanted after coming so close. I felt along with ones good physical standards, having a great mental and positive outlook was of utmost importance at this point. Here we were trained by the instructors of Siachen Battle School (SBS) and the Army Mountaineering Institute (AMI).
Finally, after days of acclimatisation and training, it was 24 of us along with our instructors, officers of the IA and the porters who started our journey on 4th October 2015. We were embarking on a journey that only a handful of civilians and dependents get to experience in their entire lifetime. Our team included four ladies and we were hell bent on completing the trek together. After taking OP Baba’s blessings, we began our trek towards Camp I. On DAY 1 we had to cover 12kms and thereafter it was 14,16 and 18 kms respectively, everyday, until we reached the Kumar Post. We were grouped into 5-6 people, roped up and led by an instructor. During the course of the trek, each rope became a family. Whether it was sharing water, chocolates or when one gets tired, the entire rope stopped and we were always there for each other. The true definition of team work got tested to its limit during the trek.
Although the first day was easier as we all were very excited, DAY 2 was a little difficult. We had to wear crampons for almost 5-6 kms. The slopes became steeper with many crevasses every now and then. Joys knew no bounds when our instructors would tell us that half link is near. Although it was tiring, the sense of togetherness and team spirit kept us going. It was a strange dilemma for all us because we could see the stark white snow but we could not risk touching it. At every camp elaborate snacks, scrumptious meals awaited us. And we were astonished to see the hospitality we received even at that height. We could see the happiness in our soldiers’ eyes when they saw us. We were a good change for them from their usual routine. They went out of their way to make us comfortable in minus degree temperature. Very evening, we got our hand and foot parade checked by the medical officer who were accompanying us. The best part was at every camp we were told that the next day is going to be easy than the previous and that very soon all of us will be at Kumar.
The view in the glacier was breath-taking. The dark nights with bright shining stars made every single moment up there so very memorable for us. Seeing a shooting star became so common that we stopped making a wish. However, deep below we all had one wish – to successfully complete the trek. Landing at this place I found the saying ‘land so barren and passes so high that only the best of friends and worst of enemy will visit us’ standing so true.
At Camp II, we had to again leave behind four of our fellow trekkers due to various medical reasons. But as they say - live moves on. And finally, on Day IV, we reached the Kumar Post.
Words failed to describe our feeling of achievement, pride and honour when we touched the Post. Emotions gushed through my mind when I saw the welcome board at Kumar Post. Being able to stand at Kumar Post was the most memorable moment of my life as I was able to stand up to the expectations of my dear ones and most importantly myself. And for the first time, four ladies and a lady officer – and maybe the first Army Officer’s Wife - were standing tall at Kumar Post.
It was a sense of pride that nobody could take from me. At the same time, I am humble to the Indian Army for helping the entire team at every step in realising our dream. And today, even I have my set of stories to share with the world on the Glacier.
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